Stopping real property loss from eroding embankment
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Behind my house there is a very steep bank/slope that leads down to a decent-sized, slow moving creek about 10 - 12 ft wide. Unfortunately it meanders right behind my property at the base of this steep embankment:
When we bought our house almost ten years ago, it had not meandered nearly as much and we had significantly more embankment/real estate than we do now. Over the last decade the creek has cut deeper and deeper into the embankment and we now have lost about 8 - 10 feet of property at the top of the slope due to erosion of the embankment. We are now about to lose our fence which runs along the top of the embankment and I think this is finally the year that I need to do something to stop the erosion of loss of real estate (and our fence).
One thought I had was to see if I could (as impossible as it sounds) redirect the creek to flow straight rather than to meander. This would prevent the creek from cutting into the embankment any further. But it wouldn't stop erosion from rain which is now just as much a problem as the creek.
To fix the erosion issue, I'm wondering if there is any material I could apply/spray/whatever to the entire embankment? I know on the side of highways I often see rocky cliffs with some kind of retaining netting that helps "pack" in the rocks and loose debris from falling onto the road.
At this stage I'm just looking to review my options so I can weigh them and only then drill down into their logistics so I can figure out which way we're going to go.
So, options-wise, what are some solutions out there that could help with both problems (that is: preventing the creek from meandering any further, and erosion of the embankment due to the creek and rainfall)?
water structural engineering
add a comment |
Behind my house there is a very steep bank/slope that leads down to a decent-sized, slow moving creek about 10 - 12 ft wide. Unfortunately it meanders right behind my property at the base of this steep embankment:
When we bought our house almost ten years ago, it had not meandered nearly as much and we had significantly more embankment/real estate than we do now. Over the last decade the creek has cut deeper and deeper into the embankment and we now have lost about 8 - 10 feet of property at the top of the slope due to erosion of the embankment. We are now about to lose our fence which runs along the top of the embankment and I think this is finally the year that I need to do something to stop the erosion of loss of real estate (and our fence).
One thought I had was to see if I could (as impossible as it sounds) redirect the creek to flow straight rather than to meander. This would prevent the creek from cutting into the embankment any further. But it wouldn't stop erosion from rain which is now just as much a problem as the creek.
To fix the erosion issue, I'm wondering if there is any material I could apply/spray/whatever to the entire embankment? I know on the side of highways I often see rocky cliffs with some kind of retaining netting that helps "pack" in the rocks and loose debris from falling onto the road.
At this stage I'm just looking to review my options so I can weigh them and only then drill down into their logistics so I can figure out which way we're going to go.
So, options-wise, what are some solutions out there that could help with both problems (that is: preventing the creek from meandering any further, and erosion of the embankment due to the creek and rainfall)?
water structural engineering
Is the other side of the creek your property as well?
– UnhandledExcepSean
3 hours ago
I'm really interesting in knowing how you decided to solve this. Please keep us in touch! I also wonder how your local government will allow you to handle this or if you bother notifying them at all.
– Sickest
58 mins ago
So, is your property line now in the creek? While it may be the may or may not give you ownership... The process you are describing reminds me of an Ox-bow lake formation over time...
– Solar Mike
16 mins ago
add a comment |
Behind my house there is a very steep bank/slope that leads down to a decent-sized, slow moving creek about 10 - 12 ft wide. Unfortunately it meanders right behind my property at the base of this steep embankment:
When we bought our house almost ten years ago, it had not meandered nearly as much and we had significantly more embankment/real estate than we do now. Over the last decade the creek has cut deeper and deeper into the embankment and we now have lost about 8 - 10 feet of property at the top of the slope due to erosion of the embankment. We are now about to lose our fence which runs along the top of the embankment and I think this is finally the year that I need to do something to stop the erosion of loss of real estate (and our fence).
One thought I had was to see if I could (as impossible as it sounds) redirect the creek to flow straight rather than to meander. This would prevent the creek from cutting into the embankment any further. But it wouldn't stop erosion from rain which is now just as much a problem as the creek.
To fix the erosion issue, I'm wondering if there is any material I could apply/spray/whatever to the entire embankment? I know on the side of highways I often see rocky cliffs with some kind of retaining netting that helps "pack" in the rocks and loose debris from falling onto the road.
At this stage I'm just looking to review my options so I can weigh them and only then drill down into their logistics so I can figure out which way we're going to go.
So, options-wise, what are some solutions out there that could help with both problems (that is: preventing the creek from meandering any further, and erosion of the embankment due to the creek and rainfall)?
water structural engineering
Behind my house there is a very steep bank/slope that leads down to a decent-sized, slow moving creek about 10 - 12 ft wide. Unfortunately it meanders right behind my property at the base of this steep embankment:
When we bought our house almost ten years ago, it had not meandered nearly as much and we had significantly more embankment/real estate than we do now. Over the last decade the creek has cut deeper and deeper into the embankment and we now have lost about 8 - 10 feet of property at the top of the slope due to erosion of the embankment. We are now about to lose our fence which runs along the top of the embankment and I think this is finally the year that I need to do something to stop the erosion of loss of real estate (and our fence).
One thought I had was to see if I could (as impossible as it sounds) redirect the creek to flow straight rather than to meander. This would prevent the creek from cutting into the embankment any further. But it wouldn't stop erosion from rain which is now just as much a problem as the creek.
To fix the erosion issue, I'm wondering if there is any material I could apply/spray/whatever to the entire embankment? I know on the side of highways I often see rocky cliffs with some kind of retaining netting that helps "pack" in the rocks and loose debris from falling onto the road.
At this stage I'm just looking to review my options so I can weigh them and only then drill down into their logistics so I can figure out which way we're going to go.
So, options-wise, what are some solutions out there that could help with both problems (that is: preventing the creek from meandering any further, and erosion of the embankment due to the creek and rainfall)?
water structural engineering
water structural engineering
asked 3 hours ago
hotmeatballsouphotmeatballsoup
1153
1153
Is the other side of the creek your property as well?
– UnhandledExcepSean
3 hours ago
I'm really interesting in knowing how you decided to solve this. Please keep us in touch! I also wonder how your local government will allow you to handle this or if you bother notifying them at all.
– Sickest
58 mins ago
So, is your property line now in the creek? While it may be the may or may not give you ownership... The process you are describing reminds me of an Ox-bow lake formation over time...
– Solar Mike
16 mins ago
add a comment |
Is the other side of the creek your property as well?
– UnhandledExcepSean
3 hours ago
I'm really interesting in knowing how you decided to solve this. Please keep us in touch! I also wonder how your local government will allow you to handle this or if you bother notifying them at all.
– Sickest
58 mins ago
So, is your property line now in the creek? While it may be the may or may not give you ownership... The process you are describing reminds me of an Ox-bow lake formation over time...
– Solar Mike
16 mins ago
Is the other side of the creek your property as well?
– UnhandledExcepSean
3 hours ago
Is the other side of the creek your property as well?
– UnhandledExcepSean
3 hours ago
I'm really interesting in knowing how you decided to solve this. Please keep us in touch! I also wonder how your local government will allow you to handle this or if you bother notifying them at all.
– Sickest
58 mins ago
I'm really interesting in knowing how you decided to solve this. Please keep us in touch! I also wonder how your local government will allow you to handle this or if you bother notifying them at all.
– Sickest
58 mins ago
So, is your property line now in the creek? While it may be the may or may not give you ownership... The process you are describing reminds me of an Ox-bow lake formation over time...
– Solar Mike
16 mins ago
So, is your property line now in the creek? While it may be the may or may not give you ownership... The process you are describing reminds me of an Ox-bow lake formation over time...
– Solar Mike
16 mins ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
This is often a complex legal situation due to regulations that affect (in many parts of the world) what you can do in or near a body or stream of water even if the land next to it or around it belongs to you; not to mention the fact that you are fighting with a force that has literally shaped the planet, and it's inexorable and quite capable of undoing many things you try to do to stop it, if, in fact, it is even legal for you to try to do those things. If the stream also is a property BOUNDARY, the legal implications of trying to move it get even more complex.
The "wire mesh" you describe is most probably gabions, which are empty wire cages which are stacked and filled (pretty much by hand, which has taken a novice contractor or two by surprise, to their cost) with rocks. Another common technique is "rip rap" which are simply large rocks layed over the face.
Your only legal option in many places would be to think about moving your fence back before it's undermined. Trying to get plant material established on the eroding slope is another approach, but many jurisdictions are less fond of people planting highly invasive species often selected in the past for that purpose, so you may need to stick with native/local species. Or, you may be able to perform some work after having hearings/meetings with the Authority Having Jurisdition over such activities in your area (conservation commission, department of environmental protection, etc.)
add a comment |
Been there , done that; my creek ( Plum Creek, Highland IN) was 30ft. width and embankment was 40 ft. high. I "coated" it with railroad ties, bricks, and many cuttings of trees and bushes. To reach my height I used 3 tiers of RR ties with slopes between. It required a lot of stuff and work. Yours looks much more manageable. Look for affordable rip-rap ;aka brick, cinder block, broken concrete, large size gravel, etc, to break the current . I used reject bricks from a nearby factory that sold them very cheap. For my larger project I used 24 yards/ about 48 tons. I suggest the mesh you have seen on highways and hold it in place with your rip-rap. Then stick a bunch of cuttings of trees that grow well in your location , early spring will work best . Then throw out a bunch ( 50 #) of seed like annual rye grass ( best in the fall ). If you like gardening it could be a great hobby area. Depending on how fast and high the stream gets ; two rows of railroad ties near the waterline will give you about 16" of "seawall". Depending on your budget , there are many options available for seawalls. If rainwater is eroding gullies ;they can be slowed with grass sod, but sod will need some sunlight.
you might want to think twice about railroad ties until you hear what the local waterways board, DEQ and envoronmental folks say about that. Creosote is considered hazardous by many. Concrete railroad ties, on the other hand, are a drug on the market and awesome for this but heavy beyond reason.
– Harper
1 hour ago
add a comment |
What I’ve seen commonly done is either large rocks or large chunks of concrete dumped to protect the area eroding.
You say it is slow moving, so I’m betting the erosion primarily happens during/after rains causing high, fast moving water. I think you’ll want pretty large rocks/concrete at the base (like maybe 2.5’ or 3’). If you own the other side, you can help straighten that section out by excavating that area.
add a comment |
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3 Answers
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active
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
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active
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votes
This is often a complex legal situation due to regulations that affect (in many parts of the world) what you can do in or near a body or stream of water even if the land next to it or around it belongs to you; not to mention the fact that you are fighting with a force that has literally shaped the planet, and it's inexorable and quite capable of undoing many things you try to do to stop it, if, in fact, it is even legal for you to try to do those things. If the stream also is a property BOUNDARY, the legal implications of trying to move it get even more complex.
The "wire mesh" you describe is most probably gabions, which are empty wire cages which are stacked and filled (pretty much by hand, which has taken a novice contractor or two by surprise, to their cost) with rocks. Another common technique is "rip rap" which are simply large rocks layed over the face.
Your only legal option in many places would be to think about moving your fence back before it's undermined. Trying to get plant material established on the eroding slope is another approach, but many jurisdictions are less fond of people planting highly invasive species often selected in the past for that purpose, so you may need to stick with native/local species. Or, you may be able to perform some work after having hearings/meetings with the Authority Having Jurisdition over such activities in your area (conservation commission, department of environmental protection, etc.)
add a comment |
This is often a complex legal situation due to regulations that affect (in many parts of the world) what you can do in or near a body or stream of water even if the land next to it or around it belongs to you; not to mention the fact that you are fighting with a force that has literally shaped the planet, and it's inexorable and quite capable of undoing many things you try to do to stop it, if, in fact, it is even legal for you to try to do those things. If the stream also is a property BOUNDARY, the legal implications of trying to move it get even more complex.
The "wire mesh" you describe is most probably gabions, which are empty wire cages which are stacked and filled (pretty much by hand, which has taken a novice contractor or two by surprise, to their cost) with rocks. Another common technique is "rip rap" which are simply large rocks layed over the face.
Your only legal option in many places would be to think about moving your fence back before it's undermined. Trying to get plant material established on the eroding slope is another approach, but many jurisdictions are less fond of people planting highly invasive species often selected in the past for that purpose, so you may need to stick with native/local species. Or, you may be able to perform some work after having hearings/meetings with the Authority Having Jurisdition over such activities in your area (conservation commission, department of environmental protection, etc.)
add a comment |
This is often a complex legal situation due to regulations that affect (in many parts of the world) what you can do in or near a body or stream of water even if the land next to it or around it belongs to you; not to mention the fact that you are fighting with a force that has literally shaped the planet, and it's inexorable and quite capable of undoing many things you try to do to stop it, if, in fact, it is even legal for you to try to do those things. If the stream also is a property BOUNDARY, the legal implications of trying to move it get even more complex.
The "wire mesh" you describe is most probably gabions, which are empty wire cages which are stacked and filled (pretty much by hand, which has taken a novice contractor or two by surprise, to their cost) with rocks. Another common technique is "rip rap" which are simply large rocks layed over the face.
Your only legal option in many places would be to think about moving your fence back before it's undermined. Trying to get plant material established on the eroding slope is another approach, but many jurisdictions are less fond of people planting highly invasive species often selected in the past for that purpose, so you may need to stick with native/local species. Or, you may be able to perform some work after having hearings/meetings with the Authority Having Jurisdition over such activities in your area (conservation commission, department of environmental protection, etc.)
This is often a complex legal situation due to regulations that affect (in many parts of the world) what you can do in or near a body or stream of water even if the land next to it or around it belongs to you; not to mention the fact that you are fighting with a force that has literally shaped the planet, and it's inexorable and quite capable of undoing many things you try to do to stop it, if, in fact, it is even legal for you to try to do those things. If the stream also is a property BOUNDARY, the legal implications of trying to move it get even more complex.
The "wire mesh" you describe is most probably gabions, which are empty wire cages which are stacked and filled (pretty much by hand, which has taken a novice contractor or two by surprise, to their cost) with rocks. Another common technique is "rip rap" which are simply large rocks layed over the face.
Your only legal option in many places would be to think about moving your fence back before it's undermined. Trying to get plant material established on the eroding slope is another approach, but many jurisdictions are less fond of people planting highly invasive species often selected in the past for that purpose, so you may need to stick with native/local species. Or, you may be able to perform some work after having hearings/meetings with the Authority Having Jurisdition over such activities in your area (conservation commission, department of environmental protection, etc.)
edited 2 hours ago
answered 2 hours ago
EcnerwalEcnerwal
55.4k23991
55.4k23991
add a comment |
add a comment |
Been there , done that; my creek ( Plum Creek, Highland IN) was 30ft. width and embankment was 40 ft. high. I "coated" it with railroad ties, bricks, and many cuttings of trees and bushes. To reach my height I used 3 tiers of RR ties with slopes between. It required a lot of stuff and work. Yours looks much more manageable. Look for affordable rip-rap ;aka brick, cinder block, broken concrete, large size gravel, etc, to break the current . I used reject bricks from a nearby factory that sold them very cheap. For my larger project I used 24 yards/ about 48 tons. I suggest the mesh you have seen on highways and hold it in place with your rip-rap. Then stick a bunch of cuttings of trees that grow well in your location , early spring will work best . Then throw out a bunch ( 50 #) of seed like annual rye grass ( best in the fall ). If you like gardening it could be a great hobby area. Depending on how fast and high the stream gets ; two rows of railroad ties near the waterline will give you about 16" of "seawall". Depending on your budget , there are many options available for seawalls. If rainwater is eroding gullies ;they can be slowed with grass sod, but sod will need some sunlight.
you might want to think twice about railroad ties until you hear what the local waterways board, DEQ and envoronmental folks say about that. Creosote is considered hazardous by many. Concrete railroad ties, on the other hand, are a drug on the market and awesome for this but heavy beyond reason.
– Harper
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Been there , done that; my creek ( Plum Creek, Highland IN) was 30ft. width and embankment was 40 ft. high. I "coated" it with railroad ties, bricks, and many cuttings of trees and bushes. To reach my height I used 3 tiers of RR ties with slopes between. It required a lot of stuff and work. Yours looks much more manageable. Look for affordable rip-rap ;aka brick, cinder block, broken concrete, large size gravel, etc, to break the current . I used reject bricks from a nearby factory that sold them very cheap. For my larger project I used 24 yards/ about 48 tons. I suggest the mesh you have seen on highways and hold it in place with your rip-rap. Then stick a bunch of cuttings of trees that grow well in your location , early spring will work best . Then throw out a bunch ( 50 #) of seed like annual rye grass ( best in the fall ). If you like gardening it could be a great hobby area. Depending on how fast and high the stream gets ; two rows of railroad ties near the waterline will give you about 16" of "seawall". Depending on your budget , there are many options available for seawalls. If rainwater is eroding gullies ;they can be slowed with grass sod, but sod will need some sunlight.
you might want to think twice about railroad ties until you hear what the local waterways board, DEQ and envoronmental folks say about that. Creosote is considered hazardous by many. Concrete railroad ties, on the other hand, are a drug on the market and awesome for this but heavy beyond reason.
– Harper
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Been there , done that; my creek ( Plum Creek, Highland IN) was 30ft. width and embankment was 40 ft. high. I "coated" it with railroad ties, bricks, and many cuttings of trees and bushes. To reach my height I used 3 tiers of RR ties with slopes between. It required a lot of stuff and work. Yours looks much more manageable. Look for affordable rip-rap ;aka brick, cinder block, broken concrete, large size gravel, etc, to break the current . I used reject bricks from a nearby factory that sold them very cheap. For my larger project I used 24 yards/ about 48 tons. I suggest the mesh you have seen on highways and hold it in place with your rip-rap. Then stick a bunch of cuttings of trees that grow well in your location , early spring will work best . Then throw out a bunch ( 50 #) of seed like annual rye grass ( best in the fall ). If you like gardening it could be a great hobby area. Depending on how fast and high the stream gets ; two rows of railroad ties near the waterline will give you about 16" of "seawall". Depending on your budget , there are many options available for seawalls. If rainwater is eroding gullies ;they can be slowed with grass sod, but sod will need some sunlight.
Been there , done that; my creek ( Plum Creek, Highland IN) was 30ft. width and embankment was 40 ft. high. I "coated" it with railroad ties, bricks, and many cuttings of trees and bushes. To reach my height I used 3 tiers of RR ties with slopes between. It required a lot of stuff and work. Yours looks much more manageable. Look for affordable rip-rap ;aka brick, cinder block, broken concrete, large size gravel, etc, to break the current . I used reject bricks from a nearby factory that sold them very cheap. For my larger project I used 24 yards/ about 48 tons. I suggest the mesh you have seen on highways and hold it in place with your rip-rap. Then stick a bunch of cuttings of trees that grow well in your location , early spring will work best . Then throw out a bunch ( 50 #) of seed like annual rye grass ( best in the fall ). If you like gardening it could be a great hobby area. Depending on how fast and high the stream gets ; two rows of railroad ties near the waterline will give you about 16" of "seawall". Depending on your budget , there are many options available for seawalls. If rainwater is eroding gullies ;they can be slowed with grass sod, but sod will need some sunlight.
answered 2 hours ago
blacksmith37blacksmith37
1,55828
1,55828
you might want to think twice about railroad ties until you hear what the local waterways board, DEQ and envoronmental folks say about that. Creosote is considered hazardous by many. Concrete railroad ties, on the other hand, are a drug on the market and awesome for this but heavy beyond reason.
– Harper
1 hour ago
add a comment |
you might want to think twice about railroad ties until you hear what the local waterways board, DEQ and envoronmental folks say about that. Creosote is considered hazardous by many. Concrete railroad ties, on the other hand, are a drug on the market and awesome for this but heavy beyond reason.
– Harper
1 hour ago
you might want to think twice about railroad ties until you hear what the local waterways board, DEQ and envoronmental folks say about that. Creosote is considered hazardous by many. Concrete railroad ties, on the other hand, are a drug on the market and awesome for this but heavy beyond reason.
– Harper
1 hour ago
you might want to think twice about railroad ties until you hear what the local waterways board, DEQ and envoronmental folks say about that. Creosote is considered hazardous by many. Concrete railroad ties, on the other hand, are a drug on the market and awesome for this but heavy beyond reason.
– Harper
1 hour ago
add a comment |
What I’ve seen commonly done is either large rocks or large chunks of concrete dumped to protect the area eroding.
You say it is slow moving, so I’m betting the erosion primarily happens during/after rains causing high, fast moving water. I think you’ll want pretty large rocks/concrete at the base (like maybe 2.5’ or 3’). If you own the other side, you can help straighten that section out by excavating that area.
add a comment |
What I’ve seen commonly done is either large rocks or large chunks of concrete dumped to protect the area eroding.
You say it is slow moving, so I’m betting the erosion primarily happens during/after rains causing high, fast moving water. I think you’ll want pretty large rocks/concrete at the base (like maybe 2.5’ or 3’). If you own the other side, you can help straighten that section out by excavating that area.
add a comment |
What I’ve seen commonly done is either large rocks or large chunks of concrete dumped to protect the area eroding.
You say it is slow moving, so I’m betting the erosion primarily happens during/after rains causing high, fast moving water. I think you’ll want pretty large rocks/concrete at the base (like maybe 2.5’ or 3’). If you own the other side, you can help straighten that section out by excavating that area.
What I’ve seen commonly done is either large rocks or large chunks of concrete dumped to protect the area eroding.
You say it is slow moving, so I’m betting the erosion primarily happens during/after rains causing high, fast moving water. I think you’ll want pretty large rocks/concrete at the base (like maybe 2.5’ or 3’). If you own the other side, you can help straighten that section out by excavating that area.
answered 3 hours ago
UnhandledExcepSeanUnhandledExcepSean
1,68131624
1,68131624
add a comment |
add a comment |
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Is the other side of the creek your property as well?
– UnhandledExcepSean
3 hours ago
I'm really interesting in knowing how you decided to solve this. Please keep us in touch! I also wonder how your local government will allow you to handle this or if you bother notifying them at all.
– Sickest
58 mins ago
So, is your property line now in the creek? While it may be the may or may not give you ownership... The process you are describing reminds me of an Ox-bow lake formation over time...
– Solar Mike
16 mins ago