How do I get a new chainring when my bike is so old, the manufacturer doesn't have the chainring (or crank) I...
I need a new chainring but when I called the manufacturer they said my model is so old they don't have the part any more.
I've attached an image of the crank from the manual and a photo from my bike. Can someone tell me if it is possible to get this type of chainring, or an entire new crank?
How do I measure it to make sure it fits my bike?
chainring
add a comment |
I need a new chainring but when I called the manufacturer they said my model is so old they don't have the part any more.
I've attached an image of the crank from the manual and a photo from my bike. Can someone tell me if it is possible to get this type of chainring, or an entire new crank?
How do I measure it to make sure it fits my bike?
chainring
add a comment |
I need a new chainring but when I called the manufacturer they said my model is so old they don't have the part any more.
I've attached an image of the crank from the manual and a photo from my bike. Can someone tell me if it is possible to get this type of chainring, or an entire new crank?
How do I measure it to make sure it fits my bike?
chainring
I need a new chainring but when I called the manufacturer they said my model is so old they don't have the part any more.
I've attached an image of the crank from the manual and a photo from my bike. Can someone tell me if it is possible to get this type of chainring, or an entire new crank?
How do I measure it to make sure it fits my bike?
chainring
chainring
edited Dec 17 '18 at 15:17
Morris
asked Dec 17 '18 at 14:57
MorrisMorris
613
613
add a comment |
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
It seems that you're asking about a BMX chainring. As far as I can see (I'm no expert in BMX) they are fairly standard. To be sure you'd neet to take three measurements:
- the diameter of the hole that goes on the bottom bracket spindle (1)
- the diameter of the hole that attaches to the drive-side crank (2)
- the distance from the centre of the first hole to the centre of the second hole (3)
Have a look at the attached image with those measurements marked red:
As you can see, the measurement 3 is somewhat flexible with the chainring pictured.
With those three measurements you can visit couple of LBSes and confirm that you're purchasing the correct part.
2
Judging by the picture, I'm inclined to say that the chainring could be 'corrosion-fused' to the crank.
– Carel
Dec 17 '18 at 15:55
add a comment |
You have a one-piece Ashtabula-style crank. These were commonly found on inexpensive department store bikes.
Unless you can find a donor bike or donor parts for cheap (say at your local bike coop) the bikes themselves are almost always not worth the cost of trying to repair with contemporary parts. I’d look at Sheldon’s page above and try to figure out which “standard” Ashtabula crank you have and find a replacement from a donor. Finding the right chainring is a particular challenge but someone with a drillpress or mill could mod one for you.
Otherwise, you could use a universal threadless bottom bracket (from Velo Orange or elsewhere) to put a modern square taper crankset on but it’ll cost you more than $100 in new parts and the original bike is likely not worth $100 unless it has sentimental value.
3
Ashtabula bottom bracket shell is much larger than threaded ones, so instead of universal threadless bottom bracket you need what is known as BMX euro bottom bracket adapter and normal threaded bottom bracket.
– ojs
Dec 17 '18 at 18:32
add a comment |
You have what is called a one-piece or 'Ashtabula' crank. Don't ask me why it has that name. Info on Sheldon Brown here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html.
Unike cars, bicycles generally use common standardized and commoditized components that do not have to be replaced with the exact part originally used. You can absolutely find replacements for these cranks and chainring. According to Sheldon there are a couple of sized of bearings used, but the bottom bracket shell and chainring center hole and drivepin are pretty standardized, so you can either replace the whole crank with new bearings or just the chainring.
You'll need to remove the crank to replace the chainring. Park Tool has a video on how to do it:
.
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
It seems that you're asking about a BMX chainring. As far as I can see (I'm no expert in BMX) they are fairly standard. To be sure you'd neet to take three measurements:
- the diameter of the hole that goes on the bottom bracket spindle (1)
- the diameter of the hole that attaches to the drive-side crank (2)
- the distance from the centre of the first hole to the centre of the second hole (3)
Have a look at the attached image with those measurements marked red:
As you can see, the measurement 3 is somewhat flexible with the chainring pictured.
With those three measurements you can visit couple of LBSes and confirm that you're purchasing the correct part.
2
Judging by the picture, I'm inclined to say that the chainring could be 'corrosion-fused' to the crank.
– Carel
Dec 17 '18 at 15:55
add a comment |
It seems that you're asking about a BMX chainring. As far as I can see (I'm no expert in BMX) they are fairly standard. To be sure you'd neet to take three measurements:
- the diameter of the hole that goes on the bottom bracket spindle (1)
- the diameter of the hole that attaches to the drive-side crank (2)
- the distance from the centre of the first hole to the centre of the second hole (3)
Have a look at the attached image with those measurements marked red:
As you can see, the measurement 3 is somewhat flexible with the chainring pictured.
With those three measurements you can visit couple of LBSes and confirm that you're purchasing the correct part.
2
Judging by the picture, I'm inclined to say that the chainring could be 'corrosion-fused' to the crank.
– Carel
Dec 17 '18 at 15:55
add a comment |
It seems that you're asking about a BMX chainring. As far as I can see (I'm no expert in BMX) they are fairly standard. To be sure you'd neet to take three measurements:
- the diameter of the hole that goes on the bottom bracket spindle (1)
- the diameter of the hole that attaches to the drive-side crank (2)
- the distance from the centre of the first hole to the centre of the second hole (3)
Have a look at the attached image with those measurements marked red:
As you can see, the measurement 3 is somewhat flexible with the chainring pictured.
With those three measurements you can visit couple of LBSes and confirm that you're purchasing the correct part.
It seems that you're asking about a BMX chainring. As far as I can see (I'm no expert in BMX) they are fairly standard. To be sure you'd neet to take three measurements:
- the diameter of the hole that goes on the bottom bracket spindle (1)
- the diameter of the hole that attaches to the drive-side crank (2)
- the distance from the centre of the first hole to the centre of the second hole (3)
Have a look at the attached image with those measurements marked red:
As you can see, the measurement 3 is somewhat flexible with the chainring pictured.
With those three measurements you can visit couple of LBSes and confirm that you're purchasing the correct part.
answered Dec 17 '18 at 15:31
MikeMike
3,53111026
3,53111026
2
Judging by the picture, I'm inclined to say that the chainring could be 'corrosion-fused' to the crank.
– Carel
Dec 17 '18 at 15:55
add a comment |
2
Judging by the picture, I'm inclined to say that the chainring could be 'corrosion-fused' to the crank.
– Carel
Dec 17 '18 at 15:55
2
2
Judging by the picture, I'm inclined to say that the chainring could be 'corrosion-fused' to the crank.
– Carel
Dec 17 '18 at 15:55
Judging by the picture, I'm inclined to say that the chainring could be 'corrosion-fused' to the crank.
– Carel
Dec 17 '18 at 15:55
add a comment |
You have a one-piece Ashtabula-style crank. These were commonly found on inexpensive department store bikes.
Unless you can find a donor bike or donor parts for cheap (say at your local bike coop) the bikes themselves are almost always not worth the cost of trying to repair with contemporary parts. I’d look at Sheldon’s page above and try to figure out which “standard” Ashtabula crank you have and find a replacement from a donor. Finding the right chainring is a particular challenge but someone with a drillpress or mill could mod one for you.
Otherwise, you could use a universal threadless bottom bracket (from Velo Orange or elsewhere) to put a modern square taper crankset on but it’ll cost you more than $100 in new parts and the original bike is likely not worth $100 unless it has sentimental value.
3
Ashtabula bottom bracket shell is much larger than threaded ones, so instead of universal threadless bottom bracket you need what is known as BMX euro bottom bracket adapter and normal threaded bottom bracket.
– ojs
Dec 17 '18 at 18:32
add a comment |
You have a one-piece Ashtabula-style crank. These were commonly found on inexpensive department store bikes.
Unless you can find a donor bike or donor parts for cheap (say at your local bike coop) the bikes themselves are almost always not worth the cost of trying to repair with contemporary parts. I’d look at Sheldon’s page above and try to figure out which “standard” Ashtabula crank you have and find a replacement from a donor. Finding the right chainring is a particular challenge but someone with a drillpress or mill could mod one for you.
Otherwise, you could use a universal threadless bottom bracket (from Velo Orange or elsewhere) to put a modern square taper crankset on but it’ll cost you more than $100 in new parts and the original bike is likely not worth $100 unless it has sentimental value.
3
Ashtabula bottom bracket shell is much larger than threaded ones, so instead of universal threadless bottom bracket you need what is known as BMX euro bottom bracket adapter and normal threaded bottom bracket.
– ojs
Dec 17 '18 at 18:32
add a comment |
You have a one-piece Ashtabula-style crank. These were commonly found on inexpensive department store bikes.
Unless you can find a donor bike or donor parts for cheap (say at your local bike coop) the bikes themselves are almost always not worth the cost of trying to repair with contemporary parts. I’d look at Sheldon’s page above and try to figure out which “standard” Ashtabula crank you have and find a replacement from a donor. Finding the right chainring is a particular challenge but someone with a drillpress or mill could mod one for you.
Otherwise, you could use a universal threadless bottom bracket (from Velo Orange or elsewhere) to put a modern square taper crankset on but it’ll cost you more than $100 in new parts and the original bike is likely not worth $100 unless it has sentimental value.
You have a one-piece Ashtabula-style crank. These were commonly found on inexpensive department store bikes.
Unless you can find a donor bike or donor parts for cheap (say at your local bike coop) the bikes themselves are almost always not worth the cost of trying to repair with contemporary parts. I’d look at Sheldon’s page above and try to figure out which “standard” Ashtabula crank you have and find a replacement from a donor. Finding the right chainring is a particular challenge but someone with a drillpress or mill could mod one for you.
Otherwise, you could use a universal threadless bottom bracket (from Velo Orange or elsewhere) to put a modern square taper crankset on but it’ll cost you more than $100 in new parts and the original bike is likely not worth $100 unless it has sentimental value.
edited Dec 17 '18 at 17:35
answered Dec 17 '18 at 17:29
RoboKarenRoboKaren
23.1k755133
23.1k755133
3
Ashtabula bottom bracket shell is much larger than threaded ones, so instead of universal threadless bottom bracket you need what is known as BMX euro bottom bracket adapter and normal threaded bottom bracket.
– ojs
Dec 17 '18 at 18:32
add a comment |
3
Ashtabula bottom bracket shell is much larger than threaded ones, so instead of universal threadless bottom bracket you need what is known as BMX euro bottom bracket adapter and normal threaded bottom bracket.
– ojs
Dec 17 '18 at 18:32
3
3
Ashtabula bottom bracket shell is much larger than threaded ones, so instead of universal threadless bottom bracket you need what is known as BMX euro bottom bracket adapter and normal threaded bottom bracket.
– ojs
Dec 17 '18 at 18:32
Ashtabula bottom bracket shell is much larger than threaded ones, so instead of universal threadless bottom bracket you need what is known as BMX euro bottom bracket adapter and normal threaded bottom bracket.
– ojs
Dec 17 '18 at 18:32
add a comment |
You have what is called a one-piece or 'Ashtabula' crank. Don't ask me why it has that name. Info on Sheldon Brown here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html.
Unike cars, bicycles generally use common standardized and commoditized components that do not have to be replaced with the exact part originally used. You can absolutely find replacements for these cranks and chainring. According to Sheldon there are a couple of sized of bearings used, but the bottom bracket shell and chainring center hole and drivepin are pretty standardized, so you can either replace the whole crank with new bearings or just the chainring.
You'll need to remove the crank to replace the chainring. Park Tool has a video on how to do it:
.
add a comment |
You have what is called a one-piece or 'Ashtabula' crank. Don't ask me why it has that name. Info on Sheldon Brown here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html.
Unike cars, bicycles generally use common standardized and commoditized components that do not have to be replaced with the exact part originally used. You can absolutely find replacements for these cranks and chainring. According to Sheldon there are a couple of sized of bearings used, but the bottom bracket shell and chainring center hole and drivepin are pretty standardized, so you can either replace the whole crank with new bearings or just the chainring.
You'll need to remove the crank to replace the chainring. Park Tool has a video on how to do it:
.
add a comment |
You have what is called a one-piece or 'Ashtabula' crank. Don't ask me why it has that name. Info on Sheldon Brown here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html.
Unike cars, bicycles generally use common standardized and commoditized components that do not have to be replaced with the exact part originally used. You can absolutely find replacements for these cranks and chainring. According to Sheldon there are a couple of sized of bearings used, but the bottom bracket shell and chainring center hole and drivepin are pretty standardized, so you can either replace the whole crank with new bearings or just the chainring.
You'll need to remove the crank to replace the chainring. Park Tool has a video on how to do it:
.
You have what is called a one-piece or 'Ashtabula' crank. Don't ask me why it has that name. Info on Sheldon Brown here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html.
Unike cars, bicycles generally use common standardized and commoditized components that do not have to be replaced with the exact part originally used. You can absolutely find replacements for these cranks and chainring. According to Sheldon there are a couple of sized of bearings used, but the bottom bracket shell and chainring center hole and drivepin are pretty standardized, so you can either replace the whole crank with new bearings or just the chainring.
You'll need to remove the crank to replace the chainring. Park Tool has a video on how to do it:
.
answered Dec 17 '18 at 17:29
Argenti ApparatusArgenti Apparatus
33.7k23585
33.7k23585
add a comment |
add a comment |
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